All images are attributed to Sarah Damon
College tours are remarkably effective at, among other things, inducing a state of ravenous hunger in attendees. After walking over 40,000 steps in just two days and subsisting solely on sandwiches (a grim foreshadowing of the college diet), I was utterly famished. To alleviate my desperation, I spent my final morning in Boston venturing into the North End in search of the city’s finest cannoli.
The cannoli is a tube of fried pastry dough filled with lightly sweetened ricotta cream. Originating in medieval Palermo as a decadent indulgence enjoyed during Carnevale before the austere observation of Lent, the Sicilian dessert remains beloved worldwide. Ironically, I embarked on this quest midway through Lent, though having given up Diet Coke rather than dessert, I proceeded with a clear conscience.
It might seem surprising that a Sicilian treat has become so closely associated with a city as quintessentially American as Boston. Still, the North End has been a vibrant Italian-American enclave for over a century. In the late 19th century, waves of Italian immigrants began traveling to America, bringing their language, their customs, and—thankfully—their cannoli to the New World. Today, the dessert is as much a Boston institution as Ben Franklin, clam chowder and a certain baseball team whose greatest tradition is miserably disappointing its fans—and that hasn’t seen a World Series win since people still used landlines (and if we generously acknowledge the 2018 outlier).
Among the dozens of bakeries that line Hanover and Salem Streets, three have emerged as the key contenders in Boston’s cannoli trade: Mike’s Pastry, Modern Pastry, and Bova’s Bakery. At each location, I ordered the crowd favorite, or the classic cannoli with vanilla ricotta filling and chocolate chips. Here’s how they fared.
Third Place: Bova’s Bakery
134 Salem Street
Price: $5.00
Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, Bova’s Bakery has been a North End staple since 1926. Founded by Antonio Bova, it holds the distinction of being both the oldest — and the smallest — of the three bakeries I visited. Its nearly century-long run speaks to its beloved status among locals and tourists alike.
That said, I will respectfully part ways with the glowing reviews, such as the one found in Yankee Magazine, because Bova’s rendition left me underwhelmed. The pastry shell was too soft for my liking, and had a pronounced saltiness that overwhelmed the sweetness of the filling. The chocolate chips, though plentiful, had little discernible cocoa flavor and seemed more ornamental than practical.
I did enjoy the ricotta filling—it was pleasantly sweet with a rich, slightly grainy texture. The small ricotta curds gave it a distinctive charm, but some might favor a smoother, more refined consistency. All in all, it was a decent cannoli, but ultimately forgettable compared to the ones that followed.
Still, at just five dollars—and with the unbeatable convenience of being open around the clock—Bova’s is definitely worth a stop, especially if you find yourself somehow craving a cannoli at 2 a.m.
Second Place: Modern Pastry
257 Hanover Street
Price: $5.50
Don’t let the name fool you — Modern Pastry has been a mainstay on Hanover Street since 1930, making it the second-oldest bakery on this list. Founded by Michael Mazzeo, it’s still owned and operated by his descendants, the Picariella family.
The shell showed improvement over Bova’s; It was flakier and slightly more structured, yet it still fell short of the crisp, delicate snap that an exceptional cannoli should have. The semi-sweet chocolate chips here offered a welcome depth of cocoa flavor, but unfortunately, they were the only element that wasn’t too sweet.
The filling was overtly sweet and bordered on cloying. Though its texture was smoother than Bova’s, it lacked the tang and richness of ricotta and instead had a one-dimensional vanilla note reminiscent of bakery frosting. A heavy dusting of powdered sugar only amplified its saccharine profile.
For just 50 cents more than Bova’s, Modern could satisfy those with a serious sweet tooth. But if you prefer more balance, you might fare better at Bova’s—or better yet, keep reading.
First Place: Mike’s Pastry
300 Hanover Street
Price: $7.00
At a whopping seven dollars, this cannoli was by far the priciest —but also the best, and worth every cent. Founded in 1946 by another Michael—Michael Mercogliano— for whom the bakery is named, Mike’s Pastry is the most famous and iconic of the three, and it’s not hard to see why.
The filling was flawlessly executed. The rich, creamy ricotta base was sweet, but not overpowering. It was luscious and velvety in texture. Subtle hints of vanilla added depth without overwhelming the palate, and the semi-sweet chocolate chips offered a welcome counterpoint to the richness. A light dusting of powdered sugar finished it off with just the right extra touch of sweetness.
The real star of the show, however, was the shell. Golden brown, buttery, crisp and delicately flaky, it provided the ideal textural contrast that brought the whole ensemble straight to the top of this list.
The presentation didn’t hurt, either. The cannoli came in Mike’s signature white-and-blue box tied with a ribbon, which was a bit tricky to unwrap while walking down Hanover Street, but undeniably charming.
Mike’s cannoli was also the largest, so the steep price is somewhat justified. It’s easily shareable among three people, if you can figure out how to cut a cannoli without making a mess (I couldn’t, nor did I want to).
While it didn’t factor into the ranking, it’s worth mentioning that Mike’s boasts an impressive variety of options: 19 different fillings and two shell styles (classic, chocolate-dipped or fully chocolate-covered). With unique flavors like blueberry, peanut butter and mint chocolate chip along with traditional favorites, Mike’s has something to offer for both purists and adventurous eaters alike. Though the other bakeries offered variations as well, none matched the breadth of creativity in Mike’s lineup.
The Final Verdict
Each of the three bakeries offers a unique interpretation of this Sicilian classic, and they all have their merits. Bova’s may be the preferred option for those seeking a more subtle, ricotta-forward cannoli. Craving something unapologetically sweet? Head to Modern Pastry.
But for the ideal balance of texture, flavor and the whole nine yards, Mike’s Pastry is the undisputed champion. Yes, the lines are long and the price is steep, but the reward is a cannoli that delivers on every front.
If you ever find yourself in Boston–whether on the sophomore-year field trip, a round of college tours or simply a leisurely getaway– I’d wholeheartedly recommend stopping at Mike’s. Or you can visit each bakery and decide for yourself which reigns supreme.
Most tourists come to Boston for the Freedom Trail, but heed the wisdom of Peter Clemenza (Richard Castellano) in The Godfather: leave the gun (or in this case, a Revolutionary War era musket?), take the cannoli.
